Christmas miracle in Trogir!
We have more news from Trogir – one of our best local crags for climbing in winter conditions. Another project done by Quentin Chastagnier, French machine. This time we managed to provide bolts for him and he bolted new line, just left from Alcatraz route and he send it the other day so we have new route called CHRISTMAS MIRACLE, 8b+/c, 40m.
Well done man!
Revolucija!
Another project was send today by Quentin Chastagnier! French machine did REVOLUCIJA to the top of the wall in Trogir and he suggest the grade 8c. This is first route of this level in Dalmatia and we are celebrating this climb for it's specific meaning.
We bolted Revolucija in 2004. just as one futuristic line and we really never thought someone will do it, it did look back then- almost impossible. Ten years after we were looking at the guy sending it,
Congratulation Quentin!!!
ALCATRAZ 2nd GO!
Every Christmas time Dalmatia is covered with climbers from all over the world. Nothing new, we would say, georges sunny days, very nice climbing areas, great conditions – why not!!!
These days French Ase Quentin Chastagnier with his girlfriend visits our climbing areas and, as usual, he is thirlled with our locations like Trogir, Marjan and others.
He has been visiting Paklenica as well and he repeated famous Manolo's Ill Maratonetta 8b+ after which he went further south, to Trogir. On the big face he managed to do first repetition of ALCATRAZ 8b+, 45 metres long blind wall for which we were waiting about 5 years for FA which was done by Ivan Lisica 2011. Also he climbed Na rubu pameti, 7c.
Marjan was a bit relaxing day for him and beside many easy routes he did Marulianus 7c/c+ onsight.
We expect some more news from French machine!
New areas in Dalmatia!
Gospinica, Omis area is new stil unifinished small sector with hard routes. Stay tunned for more info soon!!!Drasnice!
Drasnice Mega Wall recently got another project line done by Klemen Becan. 220 meters of overhanging wall now contents two project lines and we just wait for FA.
Ciovo is Hot!!!
August brings a lot of news from deep water solo, specially from Ciovo area. Some great lines have been repeated and some new as well.
Victor and Adrian Bauch, brothers from Frankenjura have repeated many nice lines up to 7c, including Ciovo benchmarks Psihobloc and Parabolica, two classic 7c routes. Congrat guys!
Klemen Becan, Slovenian Pro climber, who is visiting Dalmatia, went to Ciovo and he managed to repeat some old and send some new lines. Lokalac 7b+, Psihobloc 7c and some other routes were repeated. Most significant ascent came from project line in the middle of Granit sector. Klemen managed to send the hardest route at Ciovo, previous project line 15 metres high, Psihoterapija 7c+ and tried some other, possible 8a, but had to leave something for next visit.
Klemen was very psyched for deep water solo and he adopted really fast. He is coming back for sure and we will prepare some crazy lines for this guy.
Vukowar!
Ivan Lisica strikes again! He manage to send 50 meters long project called Vukowar. The route is located in Omis, sector Perivoj and it is the longest tufa in Dalmatia so far. It has 120 moves and 26 draws to clip. Ivan suggest 8b+ for this buty!
Klemen Becan visiting Dalmatia!
Klemen Bečan is visiting Croatia and already brings the great news. He went to Markezina greda and managed to send 45m long project on sight and suggest 8a+
Deep Water Solo Ciovo!
We have first news from this season psicobloc in Croatia and it comes from Dalmatian region, off course. We talk about Ciovo island, location with 12 sectors and more than 150 routes and it represents the best local deep water area with reason.
Anyway, we have two new ascents, both done by Leon Diependaele from Holland
1.Rocky vs Rock, 7b, 15m, Sektor Big
2.Student Mix, 7c, 9m, Sektor Granit
Well done!
Vanka Regule 2014 is over!
One more outdoor event Vanka Regule is over. Brac island and Sutivan had great festival once again and every one who went had fun for sure. It was very interesting and we hope to publish picture gallery soon. Take care and see you next year!
