Bouldering in Dalmatia

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Post published: 09.07.2012
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Bouldering in Dalmatia



Bouldering in Croatia and first efforts were done at the beginning of ‘90’s but they were never taken seriously at that time. That time was still very hard for sport climbers to find there place under the stars, and sport climbing was still very small thing, although growing fast and developing in every way.
First real tracks and recorded ascends in bouldering happened at the Dalmatian bouldering hot spot, at the local cemetery called Lovrinac. First 5 classic boulder problems were done there, as well as first harder grades like 7C and more.

Big progress in bouldering and serious approach started after year 2000. Climbers dedicated to bouldering were practicing only that and started to develop this discipline in the region, discovering new boulders and whole areas.
Dalmatia is a paradise for rock climbers in general, because of so much rocks all around and great climatic conditions through out all year long.

Sad thing for us is that we don’t have any granite rocks existing in Croatia, so even bouldering areas are limestone rock. We have monolith boulders and barriers.

The best season to practice bouldering activity is autumn, winter and spring time. Summer time is not so cool for bouldering due to high temperatures in the air.

Hardest boulder problem existing here in Dalmatia is Pticja gripa, 8A+, unrepeated problem from 2005. Pticja gripa FA was send by Slovenian bouldering legend, Urh Cehovin.

French Fontainbleau (Fb) American(Hueco) English
boulder boulder traverse
5b 4b 5a
5c 4c 5b
6a 5a 5c
6a+ 5b 6a
6b 5c 6a+ V1
6b+ 6a ... V2 B4
6c 6a+ 6b V3 ...
6c+ 6b 6b+ ... B4/5
7a 6b+ 6c V3/4 ...
7a+ 6c 6c+ V4 B5
7b 6c+ 7a V5 B6
7b+ 7a 7a+ V6 B7
7c 7a+ 7b V7 B8
7c+ 7b 7b+ V8 B8/9
8a 7b+ 7c V8/9 B9
8a+ 7c 7c+ V9/10 B10
8b 7c+ 8a V10 B11
8b+ 8a 8a+ V11 B11/12
8c 8a+ 8b V12 B12
8c+ 8b 8b+ V13 B13
9a 8b+ 8c V14 B14
9a+ 8c V15 B15
9b 8c+ V16 B16

Dalmatia climbing

Climbing guides
Climbing guides broth to you by local climbing community - Dalmatia Climbing Team & Sport Climbing Club Marulianus
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